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Some thoughts on China

chanman · Mar 27, 2009 · Leave a Comment

As mentioned, I went into China with some preconceptions, many with a degree of negativity and probably arising from years of exposure to Western media and also from the Hong Kong part of my heritage.

In the West, China is usually painted as slightly sinister, repressive, and unaligned with collective Western interests, particularly as seen by its long-held tacit and not-so-tacit alignment with the more reprehensible regimes in the world such as Mugabe’s Zimbabwe.

Every Chinese action is heavily scrutinised; from its handling of domestic issues such as Tibet, the 2008 Olympic Games and the recent upheaval in Xinjiang to Chinese foreign policy (such as their handling of North Korean nuclear disarmament) and even to her handling of her currency and her alleged deliberate devaluation of the Renminbi (RMB) (as if other countries don‟t do the same).

It’s not just the West; Hong Kong people are also generally uneasy about their future with China. Prior to the handover to the Chinese in 1997, Hong Kong had been under British control for around 150 years and the island saw phenomenal growth under colonial rule.

Despite China’s assurance that Hong Kong‟s status and institutions would remain stable for at least 50 years post-handover, Hong Kong fears China‟s perceived gradual neglect of its interests in favour of its economic rival, Shanghai. Further, on a less self-interested note and on a more prejudicial note (as we have seen), Hong Kong people have many negative perceptions of people from the mainland; principally that mainlanders lack sophistication, both in manners and in taste.

Needless to say, prior to my visit, all of the above had permeated my consciousness to some extent. However, thankfully, all of the above negativity was challenged, re-evaluated and overturned during my time there; I‟ll try my best to explain why.

Let’s have a closer look at some of the charges made against China. China has many critics worldwide, particularly from many parts of the Western media; nearly every human rights organisation; and most Western governments, to a greater or lesser extent. She comes under criticism and scrutiny for, amongst other things, her human rights record, her handling of domestic unrest (witness Tibet 2008, Beijing 1989, Xinjiang 2009), and her financial affairs (alleged devaluation of her currency to maintain her export driven economic model).

Recently, heavy scrutiny of China came during the Beijing Olympics 2008. The media chose to focus on the alleged “forcing” of child athletes into extreme training programmes for years in order to ensure the biggest medal tally; on the wider treatment of Tibetans and foreign journalists covering the contemporaneous unrest in Tibet, and on whether the fantastic pyrotechnics of the opening ceremony would be possible under a multi-party state etc.

Underpinning all this negative press and scrutiny is, I think, the fact that China is a one-party state and (to exacerbate this in the eyes of the West) there’s the fact that she is not a natural ally (China holds a veto on the UN Security Council and the US, the UK and France are generally not able to “count‟ on China’s vote. (They can’t count on Russia’s either but Russia may be held to a lesser standard of scrutiny as today Russia is, to a greater extent than China at least, democratic and perhaps viewed as more of an ally to the West). Worse, in the West’s eyes, China often aligns itself instead with unsavoury regimes such as Zimbabwe). Now I’m not passing judgement on China‟s human rights track record or any of the above, but I think it’s only right that, in the absence of any forthcoming defence, the debate be given some proper context.

It probably winds the West up more when it appears that China just doesn’t really seem to care what the West thinks. China never looks to defend or explain herself and her recent history goes some way to explaining its refusal to listen to the West. Since the end of the Ming and the beginning of the Qing Dynasty in the 1600s, China had been in relative decline to emerging world powers, (the newly industrialised powers of Europe and the US and also (later) in the modernised, militarised and resurgent Japan).

China’s military weakness and insularity was exploited by the British who forced the opium trade upon the Chinese (effectively creating markets in China), with the resultant epidemic drug dependence further weakening the nation. The Chinese desire to rid itself of the drug trade led to conflict with Britain and to the First Opium War. China’s defeat and the resulting settlement meant that Britain had exclusive rights to continue the opium trade and also to receive sovereign rights over Hong Kong. Shanghai eventually became controlled by the British, the Americans and the French.

Imagine the national sense of humiliation of losing a war that was forced upon you and then having major parts of your country controlled by foreign nations. In 1895, China lost further face when she lost the Sino-Japan War (further evidence of relative decline). Further humiliation came with the Versailles Treaty in 1919 when Germany‟s territorial interests in China were not returned to China but instead were given to Japan. Before and during the Second World War, Japan invaded, occupied and committed countless atrocities against the Chinese population. In light of all this conflict and deeply felt humiliation heaped upon her by foreign powers, it is little wonder that China, to this day, might distrust outside influences, and view unsolicited criticism as unreasonable interference. This history goes a long way to explaining China’s current diplomacy and foreign policy for, psychologically, how does one overcome a sense of humiliation? Through self-analysis and confident self-assertion without the aid of others, particularly when those “others‟ played a big part in that perceived humiliation. This is the prism through which much Chinese action and policy should be viewed.

I was just leaving China as the Xinjiang (a province in western China) riots in the summer of 2009 were blowing up. Tensions between the minority (in China as a whole) Uyghurs and the majority (in China as a whole) Han Chinese exploded resulting in at least 200 dead. Much of the world’s media reported this as an inevitable result of Chinese policy towards its minority groups, such as that of the recent mass migration of Han Chinese to Xinjiang. This policy on its own may not have led to tension but the perception amongst Uyghurs is that there is bias towards the Han from policymakers and that the economic mushrooming which has benefited vast swathes of the country has passed them by. Comparisons with the situation in Tibet were inevitable in the outside press and world opinion. There‟s no easy solution to this issue but again I think it’s useful to consider the history and the particular circumstances of China as a nation before judging the policy. China has always been made up of disparate and diverse peoples and cultures and she was only unified in around 221 BC after great struggle.

Keeping it together and maintaining racial and cultural harmony has been a struggle ever since, with a return to the Warring States from around 300 AD to the 12th Century. Just think about it: China has a huge population; with easily 1.3 billion people. That‟s more than 20 times the population of the UK. To exacerbate the obvious difficulties of governing this massive country and the vast lands within her borders, China is comprised of around 56 ethnic groups. Many speak their own dialects, the problems of which are obvious even to the extent that Mandarin had to be standardised during the 20th Century. This is the context that global calls for Tibetan autonomy and the growing calls for Han withdrawal from Xinjiang have to be addressed in light of. The concept of “One China‟ has been around for millennia. The current policy towards the minorities is driven by an ancient history of keeping all the elements of China under one umbrella; it is not driven by persecution but by a deep-rooted desire for harmony and union. Indeed, it’s often overlooked that there are actually various positive discrimination initiatives to help minorities such as exemptions from the “one-child, one-family‟ policy that holds in most other parts of China.

All of which raises the old debates surrounding self-determination. Should Tibet be granted independence if it wants it? Should Xinjiang be treated in the same way? Oddly, the West is strangely silent when it comes to the same issues at play within the borders of its allies. How else to explain the global silence regarding the Catalan issue in Spain? Nobody calls for the Spanish Government to grant the Catalan province independence. To do so would be considered unreasonable interference in internal affairs. The same goes for the internal rifts in Belgium between the Flemish and the Walloons, the not insignificant movement for independence from nationalist elements in Scotland, the French Canadians in Quebec, the Chechens in Chechnya etc.; outsiders don‟t interfere with these states.

It seems though that China is considered fair game. Why? I think it‟s because it‟s a one party state etc. something that‟s seen as a bit morally suspect, with the consequence that its policies are seen to have less legitimacy. Now I‟m not advocating the one-party state over the multi-party system (!) but whilst I was in China, I didn‟t see an oppressed, unhappy people. I saw people who were going about their daily lives trying to make their way in the more open economy of recent decades. People don‟t live in fear of the thought police either; witness the aftermath of the Sichuan earthquake in 2008, where many have been openly critical of the Government particularly in respect of allegedly poorly constructed buildings that collapsed in the massive tremors. When people say that there‟s no free press in China; well that‟s true probably in terms of criticising the government but otherwise the same preoccupations concern the press in China as they do in other countries, with pages devoted to sport, movies, music, celebrities etc. topics about which reportage is unfettered.

One thing that did concern me, however, was the state surveillance of the internet. I was there during the spat that China had with Google in around June 2009 (an issue which has since exploded again in January 2010), to the extent that Google was disabled in China for a few days. Foreign media websites are clearly vetted before the page opens (as there‟s a lengthy time lag with sites such as the BBC and The Times) and some story pages don‟t open, citing server issues. Whilst some censorship may be necessary in all societies (such as in the interests of national security), this type of information censorship is clearly not a good thing. However, it’s not such a stretch to imagine that multi-party democratic states also monitor the internet, and if they do, then maybe the state in question is just far more judicious as to the sites that are vetted and disabled. Regardless, the extent to which the internet in China can actually be controlled by the state will inevitably decrease as vast numbers of its huge population are online with so many of the users being active bloggers, social networkers, instant messengers, etc. who’ll all become harder to monitor and control, just as the real-time reporting and information that pinged around the world during the 2009 Xinjiang rioting demonstrated. China is on the way to becoming a fully open society; it will just take some time.

In terms of any snide prejudices about the people themselves, particularly from the Hong Kong perspective as described above, from my first contact in China, through Nanning and then on the train from Hong Kong to Beijing, I found any hitherto held opinions to be completely unfounded. Chinese people are incredibly friendly and kind. From train staff to food sellers to fellow hostel guests to other shoppers, the people were just lovely. Encounters I remember particularly fondly were the staff at Nanning train station who kindly waited with me through the night, the great hot-pot stall lady in the next hutong down from the one we stayed in Beijing, animated taxi-drivers, and friendly fellow customers in restaurants and street stalls who implored (read dared) us to take on more and more chilli or eat sheep’s testicles! Like anywhere in the world, people outside the cities may lack a certain worldliness but the charges of a lack of sophistication definitely cannot be levelled at the people in Beijing and Shanghai who are, for the most part, cultured, confident and achingly urbane. I absolutely love it in China; I love the culture, I love the food and I love the people; I’m definitely going back.

Shanghai

chanman · Mar 27, 2009 · Leave a Comment

After Beijing and the Great Wall, I said goodbye to my cousin Jerry, for a few days at least, whilst he returned to Hong Kong and I travelled south-eastwards to Shanghai. I took an overnight sleeper train. Trains are a pleasurable experience in China; my train left from Beijing Central Station, where I got the impression that night travel is a popular mode of transport in China. Passengers waiting for their trains sit outside the station in small huddles, with families and friends. There are masses of street hawkers all selling exactly the same products: water, tea, tiny folding chairs for waiting on and, of course, a myriad of cups of instant noodles for the train ride. Trains in China all come equipped with free hot-water dispensers for tea and noodles – so civilised! Train travel is a dream here; comfortable full-length bed bunks (full-length for me I suppose at 5 feet 6 inches tall), helpful and attentive staff (even through the mutual incomprehension), an excellent buffet carriage replete with tasty food and, most importantly, trains depart on time and arrive on schedule.

Shanghai sits on the east coast of China on the Huangpu River Delta. The city can be usefully split into two zones: Pudong to the East and Puxi to the West. Puxi is supposedly where all the culture and history are whereas Pudong is (according to the guidebooks anyway) fairly soulless; it‟s where the new global commercial future of Shanghai is based, with its futuristic mega-buildings and impossibly bright and gaudy lights. I was only in Shanghai for a short time and I stayed exclusively in Puxi.

It‟s impossible to describe Shanghai without a brief discussion of its past. Shanghai has a complicated history chequered by a series of humiliations inflicted by the Western powers and by unimaginable atrocities committed by the Japanese during its occupation of Shanghai in the Second World War. Shanghai’s real history started after the Treaty of Nanjing in 1842, following the First Opium War with Britain and her allies. The resulting peace settlement (as we saw earlier) saw Hong Kong ceded to the British and, amongst other things, saw Shanghai become Britain‟s most important post in China, both strategically and in terms of trade. Other nations followed Britain‟s lead, with the Americans and the French establishing their own “concessions‟ (areas of land within Chinese borders whilst deemed outside of China’s control). The following decades saw Shanghai mushroom from a fishing port to a global metropolis. Evidence of the colonial powers’ occupation can be seen all over the famed Bund, a stretch of riverside real estate filled with European-influenced architecture. Further humiliation was heaped on China by the defeat by Japan in the Sino-Japanese War of 1895 and Japan entered the politics and development of Shanghai. In the first few decades of the 20th Century, in addition to rising prosperity and worldwide prominence for its economic might and glamour, Shanghai gained an international reputation for drugs, gambling and sleaze. The use of opium was rife and the drug helped the foreign powers reinforce their grip on the city. It was only at the closing chapters of the Second World War, and only after the horrific occupation of the city by the Japanese, that Shanghai fully returned to Chinese control. However, even under Chinese control, Shanghai had to wait until 1992, when the then Chinese leader Deng Xiaoping, after seeing the huge success of the Southern Special Economic Zones such as Shenzhen (following the experiment to open up China‟s economy) decreed that it could modernise; Pudong’s skyline is testament to Shanghai‟s incessant desire to become the future.

Having just come from Beijing, a city I absolutely adored, I wasn’t blown away by Shanghai. It’s relentlessly commercial and modern and seemingly proud to be so. And why not? The city is the economic engine room of the new China. However, a great world city needs more than new banks, a spanking new stock exchange and glass and steel edifices in ever more futuristic designs. A great world city needs a world class cultural scene with globally renowned galleries and museums, stunning libraries and a burgeoning creative scene of all shades, in fields as diverse as literature, food, fashion, music and academia.

Thankfully, however, there were pockets of culture to be found in Shanghai such as in the brilliant art district at 50 Moganshan Road (a superb maze of warehouses and galleries in an excellent creative enclave), in the elegant former French Concession, and also in the invigorating warren of alleyways at Taikang Road, which was full of artisan shops, boutiques, galleries, cafes and restaurants; a great place to get lost in for an afternoon with your camera and a few Renminbi (RMB) in your pocket. 50 Moganshan Road is particularly interesting; it feels empty of visitors but that’s primarily because it’s so big; there are galleries and studios almost everywhere, behind decrepit buildings and tucked away behind shops. After browsing a few hit-and-miss galleries, I popped into a studio belonging to Zhang Zongmei, a photographic artist well-known in China. Zhang is about 40 years old with an infectious energy. He was incredibly friendly, and he invited me to join him and his apprentice for a fairly elaborate tea ceremony. Through his apprentice’s translation, we talked about our lives. He grew animated when he found out I was travelling. He wanted to know where I’d been and what I’d thought I’d taken from the experience. We talked haltingly about philosophy (my degree subject came out) and he tried to tell me something about a potential synthesis between Eastern and Western philosophy. Of Western philosophers, he was most fond of Schopenhauer and he laughed when I told him that I thought Schopenhauer’s ideas were life-denying. As I walked around his gallery and looked at his abstract photography, I had a strong sense of admiration for this artist’s way of life and his commitment to his vision; it’s something I’m drawn to but I wonder whether I have the balls to pursue full-time and without compromise. It was here in the creative districts and the alleyways of Shanghai that I felt I’d seen the real city.

The food in Shanghai, as expected, is fantastic and probably most famous for the varieties of dumplings on offer. Shanghai is the home of dumplings. The most famous are jiaozi, xiaolongbao, guotie and shengjian; all filled with pork and vegetables, some steamed, others fried, some containing a juicy broth and some eaten with finely sliced ginger and rice vinegar. My favourite has to be the shengjian; fried on one side and filled with a stunning broth from the cooking juices of the pork inside. These have to be eaten carefully as just chewing them in the wrong way often means the delicious, meaty, rich hot broth goes everywhere, burning your face and ruining your clothes! The best, and most locally approved, way of eating them is to pierce the top of the dumpling with a chopstick and then to suck the juice out of it and then eat the rest, preferably with a bit of fiery chilli paste – absolutely delicious!

Shanghai is undoubtedly a huge part of the future for China but it’s just one face of its national identity. In a city where almost nothing is older than 150 years, it’s easy to forget that you are standing in a country whose history stretches back continuously more than 5,000 years. The skyline of Pudong is no doubt impressive but it left me cold. The colonial cityscape of Puxi was more interesting than Pudong but still nowhere near as fascinating as the mind-blowing sights of Beijing. Beijing somehow effortlessly combines modernity with the glory of its mighty past, and manages to merge looking firmly forwards to its future as the administrative centre for the world’s next superpower with its endless creativity and unshakeable cultural confidence. This definitely won’t be the last time I visit China; next time I’ll go to the west of the country; to Sichuan, to Tibet, to Xinjiang, to Shanxi etc. This country is huge and I’ve only just scratched the surface.

The Great Wall of China at Huanghua

chanman · Mar 27, 2009 · Leave a Comment

During my time in Beijing, we took a trip up to the Great of Wall of China; I mean you can’t come to Beijing and not go to the Great Wall, can you! The Great Wall was begun over 2,000 years ago and is over 4,000 miles long. Historians think that more than 2 million people died during the construction of the fortification. It’s much believed that the Great Wall is visible from space, but according to Wikipedia, that’s an urban myth; even at low orbit (100 miles up), it’s not visible to the naked eye.

We avoided the touristy sections of the wall such as at Badaling, where we’d heard that lifts and electric carts were the order of the day. Ever the intrepid backpackers seeking travelling authenticity (ahem!), we chose to go to the Wall at Huanghua, a section named after a nearby small town and we joined a tiny tour group for a day trip.

It was an early start and it was a two hour drive to Huanghua. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky and I knew it was going to be a warm one (we found out later that we were in the middle of a heat-wave – around 38 degrees Celsius). Before long we were out of the city and weaving our way through the forested hills and suddenly I could see the Wall in the distance snaking its way through the mountains to the north. The group was seven strong, travellers who all had the same idea as us, to avoid the throngs. In the event, we were privileged enough to have the Wall to ourselves that day. We started at the dam and reservoir just outside the town and climbed up the rubbled steps onto the Wall itself and slowly (and I mean really slowly) made our way westwards towards our rendezvous with our minibus about six kilometres away.

Me and my cousin Jerry on the Great Wall of China

The views were immediately magnificent; look eastwards and you see the Wall curl off far into the distance; turn around and the Wall looms steeply above. The Wall at this point was around six metres wide and about three metres high. The ramparts were about one metre higher than the floor of the Wall. At some points, there were steps; at others, there were just heaps of rubble and we definitely had to watch our footing.

Looking down the Great Wall

It’s a difficult feeling to describe, but standing on the Wall, you feel a palpable sense of history; and not just any old history such as that of a battle in the 1700s, but a sense of serious and weighty history; of being on one of the major achievements of human engineering and ambition such as Machu Picchu and Angkor Wat. It’s astonishing to think that this was conceived and built more than a thousand years ago and that it’s still very much standing to this day.

Look how steep the Great Wall can be! Imagine it was icy in winter

We strolled along the Wall at a snail’s pace sitting down on the edges, just soaking up the views and marvelling at the fact that we had the Wall all to ourselves. Eventually, we saw signs of life with the appearance of an old man with a large sack on his back who starting screaming at us angrily in Mandarin as he raced off down the hill. I think he was stealing chunks of the Wall.

It goes on for miles and miles

Afterwards, we stopped for lunch at a small local eaterie in Huanghua and enjoyed superlative and incredibly warm hospitality from the local matriarch who spoiled us with masses of delicious food that was never going to be finished, washed down with some very welcome ice-cold tea as we reflected on our privileged morning at the incomparable Great Wall.

China – Beijing, the Northern Capital

chanman · Mar 27, 2009 · Leave a Comment

AFTER THE MANY DELIGHTS of Hanoi, I took a bus three hours’ northwards to Dong Dang at the Vietnamese border with China. Here, I walked the short limbo of no-man’s land into the People’s Republic of China; my first visit to the country.

China is absolutely enormous! It’s the third biggest country by land mass in the world. It borders a staggering 14 countries: Vietnam, Laos, Burma, India, Bhutan, Nepal, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Russia, Mongolia and North Korea. It’s the most populous country in the world with more than 1.3 billion people; to put that into some perspective, that’s more than 20% of the world or more than one in five of all people on the planet. The PRC officially recognizes 56 distinct ethnic groups, the largest of which are the Han Chinese, who make up about 92% of the total population. Large ethnic minorities include the Zhuang (16 million), Manchu (10 million), Hui (9 million), Miao (8 million), Uyghur (7 million), Yi (7 million), Tujia (5.75 million), Mongols (5 million), Tibetans (5 million), Buyei (3 million), and Koreans (2 million). China is a one-party state controlled by the Communist Party of China, and is one of the last 5 remaining communist states in the world, along with Vietnam, Laos, North Korea and Cuba.

The land border crossing at Dong Dang/Pingxiang was the first time on my trip that I saw guards with serious weaponry; each Chinese soldier had assault rifles and every bus was thoroughly checked. Having been through Malaysia, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam without so much as a grumpy word from the generally bored-looking border officials, this was how border crossing should be. I wasn’t to stay long in China on this occasion; I was continuing by bus to Nanning and from there jumping onto another bus to the Chinese border with Hong Kong at Shenzhen. (Just in case anyone wants to do this journey, whilst no-one (including, disconcertingly, border officials) had heard of it, a bus trip from Hanoi to Hong Kong does exist – just ask around Hanoi travel agents. It takes just 24 hours in total with a free supper). It was a four hour bus ride to Nanning. Nanning bus station is absolutely massive and, completely surreally, had as a music policy, the interminable Celine Dion song from Titanic on repeat loop at full blast for the three hours I was there. Here, I was very well looked after by very kind ladies who, despite a mutual lack of understanding, ensured that I was put safely on the sleeper bus to Hong Kong.

Beijing

After a few days back in Hong Kong, I boarded a sleeper train with my cousin, Jerry, at Kowloon Station to Beijing and, within two hours, we were over the border into China, in the province of Guangdong.

Undoubtedly, I was entering China with preconceptions (many negative) particularly having recently spent time in Hong Kong and also after years of exposure to the international media. Hong Kong is particularly suspicious of Chinese intent and every action that could be seen to have any impact on Hong Kong is intensely scrutinised by the Hong Kong media and by the Hong Kong people. Prior to the handover to China in 1997, Hong Kong had been under British governance having been ceded to Britain under a 99 year lease following the Opium Wars. It was agreed between China and Britain in 1984 that, following the handover, Hong Kong would retain a degree of autonomy (in contrast to the rest of China) and that stability within the island would be guaranteed for the 50 years post-handover. Despite these assurances from China, there’s the keenly-felt perception in Hong Kong that Beijing is attempting to quietly downgrade Hong Kong’s global importance, for example, by raising Shanghai’s significance and prominence through heavy promotion of its port and through its fast-growing importance as the financial centre of mainland China, all the while, whilst neglecting to attend to the parallel interests of Hong Kong. In addition to these fears, many Hong Kong people also have prejudices (to differing degrees) about the mainland mostly alluding to a lack of sophistication on the part of its inhabitants. The challenge to, constant re-evaluation of, and joyful overturn of these preconceptions began on that sleeper train and all the way along my journey through this incredible country.

This was my first ever sleeper train journey; my compartment was narrow, had two triple bunks on the sides of it and I was on one of the two uppermost beds. You climb on top of the other beds to get there. The bed was surprisingly comfortable (even without space to sit up). Sleeper trains are great fun; everyone either hangs out in the compartment or in the narrow communal corridor shared by all the other compartments in the carriage. I’d heard about them from my time in Hong Kong, but this was the first time I’d seen squat toilets in China. Apparently, they’re (surprisingly) very popular amongst the mainland Chinese; I later read that this is because it’s supposed to be a more natural position for that sort of thing!

We arrived at Beijing West’s massive railway station after just 25 hours on the train and headed straight for the Dongcheng district, a central area, just to the east of the Forbidden City which is the very heart of Beijing. Our hostel was in a ‘hutong’; part of the fantastic culture of Beijing’s fascinating hutong system. (A hutong is a street or alleyway dating back from the 1200s when the invading and all-conquering Mongols rebuilt the city, having razed much of it to the ground during their pillage. Generally, a hutong is a low-rise, tree-lined street of beautiful grey walls and classical courtyards; they’re a total antidote to the skyscrapers of Hong Kong and Bangkok.) The hutongs are dotted all around the city and one of the most famous is the Nanluoguxiang (NLGX) hutong.

NLGX is one of the new cultural centres of Beijing; full of alternatives and creatives and is completely on-the-button-bang-up-to-date in terms of style. People there were sporting a look I haven’t seen anywhere outside Beijing; it was utilitarian, interestingly cut, both fitted and unstructured, in muted colours, layered, and many things besides. There’s so much going on in this hutong; there are interesting and quirky cool bars, excellent hole-in-the-wall food stalls, great independent shops selling beautiful leather goods, notebooks, fantastic stationary, brilliant visual art, shops famous for cheesy yoghurt and so much more. It’s literary, cultured and immensely creative. The Government is now trying to recreate the success of NLGX in other hutongs (unfortunately, it made a mistake with a hutong just to the south of Tiananmen Square which is sadly empty) in stark contrast to recent policy which tried to redevelop (read demolish!) the hutongs. Thankfully, the Government is now trying to preserve important historical and cultural sites (and sights).

The food in Beijing is amazing. Having been brought up on Cantonese food, it was a welcome surprise to discover the many different styles that actually comprise the full range of Chinese food. In the famous Donghuamen night market in Dongcheng, I enjoyed food from all China such as heavily spiced lamb kebabs from Xinjiang in the far-west of China (and much in the news recently in 2009), superb dumplings with a huge variety of delicious fillings (pork, mushrooms, beef and water chestnuts) and casings (steamed or fried), gorgeous rotten beancurd (although less pungent than the kind found in Hong Kong’s Mongkok), and steamed sticky glutinous rice cooked inside bamboo sticks; I did though steer clear of trying the Xinjiang dish of barbequed lamb testicles; these are huge things, about the size of a cricket ball!

As usual, I also hunted out the hole-in-the-wall type of establishment and, for breakfast, enjoyed braised donkey meat served in panini-style bread: absolutely delicious; tastes a little bit like horse (only joking).

In the hutongs, we also discovered true Sichuan-style hot-pot; a soup made up of chillies (to make you sweat rivers) and with enough peppercorns to actually numb all feeling in your mouth, your lips and your throat. A pot of this fiery broth is placed in a hole in your table over a fire, slowly reducing the soup (to a thick, gelatinous conclusion), and you dip meats and vegetables, mushrooms (such as a chewy, stringy but delicious white fungus which, sponge-like, soaks up all the broth), beancurds and noodles into the pot. The sweat comes on almost immediately and even the cheap and excellent Yanjing local beer doesn’t help quench the heat; it only exacerbates it. Further down the side-streets, there are fantastic street stalls with another kind of broth and hot-pot; this time, the meats etc. come served with sesame paste, incredibly fiery raw garlic and impossibly hot chilli oil – delicious! We became regulars at this stall in the next hutong down from our hostel with the ubiquitous tiny stools, shirtless card-playing locals egging us on to take more chilli. The shirtless local is a bit of a Hong Kong stereotype of mainland Chinese people, that they roll their shirts up over their bellies and scratch themselves, much like a cat does, and then spit everywhere. It’s absolutely true and also great, invigorating fun to emulate; it’s so relaxing to throw off normal social practices in public!

The nightlife is brilliant in Beijing, particularly in the NLGX area and in the nearby Sanlitun district. The range of bars is huge in NLGX; there’s (allegedly) the smallest bar in China (to be fair to it, it is just a tiny bar with standing room only!); there’s another bar with gorgeous velvet armchairs with kung-fu movies on the projector screen; there’s a massive bookstore with a huge bar in it (or should that be a huge bar with a massive bookshop in it?); there’s bars serving just German beers; the bar next door just Belgian beers; there’s a bar selling just shots and nothing else; and in a warren of lanes in Sanlitun, great dive bar after great dive bar. The bars are mostly quirky and definitely independent; I haven’t seen this type of overtly cool and interesting bar culture since Melbourne.

Beijing is packed full of sights that probably make up much of the world’s top 20 sights to see; in particular (and in no particular order), the Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square and, of course, the Great Wall of China, part of which wraps itself around the city around 60km to the north. I couldn’t wait to see the Forbidden City; its legend, its history, its sheer scale and majesty that I’d only gleaned from books as a child meant that I walked into the City with an unconcealed excitement and a sense that I was stepping back into history. The Forbidden City is a massive complex of ancient buildings built over centuries and dating back to the Ming Dynasty. No-one except royalty or permitted officials were allowed to set foot inside the Forbidden City upon pain of death. We started from the north at the Shenwu Gate and made our way through the complex towards Tiananmen Square. It was a blisteringly hot day and the accompanying blindingly azure blue skies made for fantastic pictures including, of course, the classic and iconic shot with us in the foreground and the extraordinary Hall of Supreme Harmony, with its beautiful double roof, in the background. The architecture in the Forbidden City was majestic and the level of detail in the richly coloured and intricately ornate beam work in the roofing was sublime.

It was incredible to walk around a place that had been closed to visitors for 500 years, and even more mind-blowing to think that this stunning complex was built all those years ago. We exited the Forbidden City at the South Gate and took a photograph with the huge, iconic portrait of Chairman Mao smiling beatifically behind us. In front of us was the huge landscape of Tiananmen Square. I looked around for that road where the famous scene during the student pro-democracy demonstrations in 1989 took place, when a (still) unknown man stepped in front of a tank column forcing it to stop; I couldn’t identify it. Today, there’s nothing in the square to remind visitors of the massacre; you’ll just see the massive Mao mausoleum to the south, the Great Hall of the People to the west; and an as yet unopened museum to the east of the square.

We also visited the stupendous Summer Palace; a monument built during the last years of the Qing Dynasty, the last Dynastic rulers of China. The cost of building the Summer Palace was apparently astronomical; it features an enormous man-made lake, a sumptuous residence and a richly decorated and majestic temple. The Palace witnessed the dying days of the Qing, when the ruling order was subverted, to the extent that the Dowager Empress Cixi imprisoned her son, the rightful Emperor, in the Palace. The entire place seems to bear out the old adage: decadence before the fall.

After just a week, it was time to leave Beijing. Beijing is absolutely awesome and is a total must-see for travellers! I love it! I’ve heard from people a common complaint about Beijing, one that’s usually levelled at cities like Hong Kong and Shanghai; namely that it’s a bit ‘fast’. I always hesitate to use that description of a city because so often this is a thinly disguised euphemism for ‘modern and soulless’ and the reality of Beijing couldn’t be further from this perception. Beijing is totally different from the likes of ‘fast’ cities such as Kuala Lumpur, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Bangkok etc. Of course, it’s modern and, for the most part, technologically current, but this is always a firm second and subordinate to its dominant cultural aspects. I definitely don’t see the rampant commercialism that I see in Shanghai or Bangkok, and Beijing is infinitely the better for it. Instead, at all moments you’re there, you just know that you’re standing in one of the ancient capitals of China (others include Xian (home of the Terracotta Warriors) and Kaifeng), in one of the oldest surviving civilisations, and Beijing simply drips with impossibly weighty history and unique cultures (both ancient and modern) with some of the friendliest people I’ve ever met and some of the best food I’ve ever eaten – just perfect, perfect travelling ingredients. Beijing is absolutely brilliant; oozing history, seething with creativity and with more than an eye on its future as the centre of the world’s next superpower. I’ll definitely return in the next few years.

Halong Bay

chanman · Mar 27, 2009 · Leave a Comment

   

I couldn’t leave Hanoi and Vietnam without taking a quick trip to Halong Bay eastwards on the coast at the Gulf of Tonkin; eventually, after days of gentle cajoling, Lee finally managed to sell me a tour there. Halong Bay is a truly beautiful spot and a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site: gorgeous blue waters heavily punctuated with forested limestone karsts rising out of the sea. There are more than 2,000 of these little islands and the sight is something out of a James Bond movie.

I joined an overnight tour on an imitation junk boat which chuntered gently around the islands. We stopped off at a vast limestone cave system on one of the islands; I’d seen quite a few of these caves on my trip but they’re still awe-inspiring. We stopped off for the afternoon at a makeshift jetty from where we jumped into kayaks and explored a couple of the smaller islands around the bay.

That afternoon, as the sun began to drop, we climbed a mountain on one of the biggest islands where, at the top, we feasted on some unforgettable views across the limestone islands dotted around the impossibly turquoise blue waters of Halong Bay. That evening, from the deck of the boat, we watched the sun go down over the horizon with an ice-cold sweet Vietnamese beer – a fantastic trip.

I left Hanoi and Vietnam with a slightly heavy heart. I could have stayed there for several more weeks, perhaps even months, and I saw how many people could relocate for much longer periods. It’s easily one of my very favourite countries.

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